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Cowboy Hats 201: Guide to Selecting, Shaping and Styling your Hat for the Show Ring

Women’s Comprehensive Styling Guide for Western Show Felt Hats:

Introduction

What to Expect from this BLOG

  • Felt Cowboy Hat Style & Shaping considerations for Women

    • Complete guide to shaping & styling Felt Hats for Western Shows

    • Helpful Hat style tips & practical advice to help you shape the perfect hat!



Hello, Equestrian Fashionistas!

First impressions matter!  Your hat is the first thing that most people will notice.  In competition, a poorly maintained, fitted or shaped hat will be very noticeable to a judge.  To the contrary, an extremely tidy, “crisp” hat shows the world that someone really takes pride in their appearance.  

As every fashionista knows, we’re different from men and our hats are too. We have different proportions, styles & needs. To us, a cowboy hat isn't just a piece of attire; it's an extension of our personality and a crucial element of our show ring ensemble.


In the last article:

See this gallery in the original post

we covered Hat Basics

  • Hat parts & terminology

  • Hat types & quality rating

  • Hat crown & brim shapes

  • Hat sizing & proper fit

  • Hat care & maintenance

  • Hat storage & transportation

  • Other helpful hat tips


Table Of Contents

  • Hat Style - considering everything before purchasing a felt hat

  • Hat Colors - you, your horse, your outfit

  • Hat Size & Shape - Crown Heights, Brim Lengths, Hat shaping

  • Uniquely You - your needs, your proportions, Your Style

  • Hat Customization’s - Buckles, lacing, engraving, embellishments & more

  • Current Hat Trends - What’s hot & what’s not

  • Hat Style Tips & Suggestions - Need To Know Info For All Hat Owners!


Cowboy Hat Style

Who are you & what is your style? This is what makes it so difficult, we are all so unique!

With so many styles, materials, and trends to consider, selecting the perfect hat can seem overwhelming. But fret not! We're here to guide you through selecting the perfect hat, shaping your hat, and staying atop the latest trends in the show horse industry.


Special Cowgirl Hat Considerations

What are your hat needs

  • Felt Hats for a Western show - should have a cattleman’s crown

  • What division - different classes have different brim shapes & rules

  • What level of show - higher level shows demand higher quality hats


Who are you

  • Physical Stature - hat size, crown height, brim length

  • Face Shape - hat shapes, angles & proportions

  • Personal Style - preferences, hat colors & customization’s

Considering these things will help you find the perfect hat


Hat Color Considerations

  • Consider hair color,

  • complexion,

  • outfit,

  • horse 

  • Tack

Consistency in color and style creates a visually appealing ensemble that can catch the judge’s eye.


Color Options

  • Classic colors - versatile & never go out of style

  • Other colors - compliment & match your attire

  • Bold colors - are more fun & add variety!

The right color can make your ensemble pop in the show ring


Classic Colors

  • Black - the most popular & timeless classic go-to option

    • Your collection should start with a nice black hat and expand from there.

    • is the most versatile color hat that can coordinate with the most different looks.

  • Sand & Neutral - other classic colors that will never go out of style.


Other Color Options

  • White

  • Sliverbelly

  • Chocolate


Bold Colors

Red, Royal Blue, Hot Pink, etc.

  • these are very fun colors

  • great for expanding your collection

  • great for kids

  • can be difficult to match

  • limited use-ability


Hat Size & Shape

Crown Heights

  • 3⅞” - Short Gambler

  • 4” - Standard Gambler

  • 4¼” - Short Brick, Tall Gambler

  • 4½” - Short Cattleman, Standard Brick

  • 4¾” - Standard Cattleman, Tall Brick

  • 5” - Tall Cattleman

  • 6” - FULL open crown



Cattleman Crown Shaping

  • A “U” shaped crease down the center with “Dents” on each side

  • The crease can vary in depth, width and slopes

  • The dents can vary in size shape & depth


Their final shape and taper can vary & should be adjusted to compliment facial structure


The Crease

  • Depth

  • Width

  • Slope

Ridge Top - Like a cattleman but pinched steeper, narrower and tighter at the top


The Dents

  • Size

  • Shape (taller dents will prevent hat from dropping too low on the head)

  • Depth


Brim Lengths

BRIM Lengths - can range from 3⅞-5”

  • 3⅞” - Short - Kids & Petite Women

  • 4” - Standard - Kids, Women, Men

  • 4¼” - Standard + Women, Men

  • 4½” - Standard ++ Women, Men

  • 4¾” - Long usually Men

  • 5” - Long + usually Men

the bigger the brim, the more dramatic the look (they can always be trimmed)



Brim Shaping


Careful thought and consideration about the hat’s PROPORTIONS (crown height, brim length) & SHAPE (crown shape, brim shape) is required for a winning look.


Uniquely You

Women, Girls & Felt Hats

  • Cowboy hats are unisex & the same exact hat can be worn by both genders

  • That being said, there can be a lot of proportion differences between genders

  • The exact same hat might look much better on one person depending on it’s proportions relative to the person wearing it


assessing Stature & Face Shape

  • Height - short - medium - tall

  • Weight - thin - medium - thick

  • Face Shape - Smooth or angular lines

    • smooth lines - circle, oval, long oval

    • angular lines - rectangular, triangular, diamond


Compliment your stature

A smaller stature should have a smaller hat

  • shorter, more angular crown

  • shorter - medium brim

A larger stature should have a larger hat

  • taller, more rounded crown

  • medium - longer brim


Balance your features

Soften hard lines - angular faces

  • more rounded crowns for angular faces

  • curved front brim & rounded brim for angular faces

Shape soft lines - smoother faces

  • angular crowns for round faces & small stature

  • flat front brim & angular brims for round faces


previously we discussed head shape for hat opening shape


Face Shapes

Round face - add some height but not width

  • high crown height

  • curved front brim

  • avoid wide brims, rounded crowns


Oval face - almost anything can work

  • consider other things like your overall stature

  • your division

  • personal style


Long narrow face - moderate hat that sits lower

  • medium crown height

  • smaller dents - sit the hat a bit lower on the head

  • curved front brim

  • wider brim in front


Square face - should have softer lines

  • rounded crown

  • wide front brim

  • avoid harsh creases


Triangular face -

  • shorter brim

  • narrower in front (teardrop shaped)


Diamond face -

  • angled brim

  • curved front brim


Felt Hat Customization’s

Does your class allow hat customizations?

  • western pleasure - yes

  • Reining - no

Details, Embellishments, Customizations

  • Adding special binding 

  • Adding borders to the hat

  • Whip-lace embellishments (have been trending for years).

  • Painted tattoo print on underside of brim (is allowed in some classes)

  • Crystals can be added in some classes (becoming less popular)

  • Many hat makers offer customizations, from unique hat bands to personalized creases. Custom features can set your hat apart and reflect your personal brand in the arena.


Current Hat Trends

what’s in and what’s not


Trends that are in



  • Trends that are in

    • While trends are exciting, there’s something to be said for timeless elegance.  Classic shapes & colors never go out of style & ensure your look stays polished & professional

    • A Black hat will never go out of style 

    • A quality, well-fitted, well-shaped hat will never go out of style

    • Personalized embellishments like custom hat bands and unique colors are trending

  • Things to AVOID

    • Brims no longer go as high & tight around the crown as in the past (no more “Taco” fold)

    • Be careful, some trends may not always compliment your facial and body structure.

    • Flat Brims

    • Extremely pulled down brims

    • 5” brims

    • Chunky headbands

    • Stampede strings


Cowboy Hat Style Tips

The Look - Style, Shape & Proportion - this is what makes a hat unique!

  • Style - for this purpose its REAL Cowgirl Hats for Western Horse Shows

    • All-around events (Halter, Western Pleasure, Showmanship, Horsemanship)

      • Looking for an overall HIGH, tight & crisp hat appearance

      • Brims should be creased upward with no dip in the front. “The show crease”

      • Crown should be creased fairly narrow

      • Vents should be pulled out a little longer


Do your homework, learn as much as you can about hats before making the big purchase.

  • Ask a professional for help.

  • Try on multiple hats of different shapes before you decide

  • Pricier hats usually include lifetime free maintenance & re-shaping at horse shows

Next article - Finding a Hat: Guide to Cowboy Hat Brands & Retailers



Hat Tips by Discipline/Class

  • Western Pleasure

    • Architectural shapes with clean lines and sharp corners

    • Often has a slightly longer (4-1/4” brim)

    • Is open to more customizations (see below)

  • Halter

  • Horsemanship & Showmanship

    • Prefers a more classic, clean-look with no customizations.

  • Reining - shape hats to fall between the cutter and the show crease

  • Each Discipline Has it’s own look such as the “High Quarterhorse brim”


Selecting a Western show hat goes beyond aesthetics; it's about finding a piece that resonates with your style and enhances your performance.  A good hat just looks right, matches your personal vibe and draws attention to your beautiful face.

The Hat Style

Shapes and Proportions…face shapes

  • Tall - tall

  • Corners of the brim should be the width of your face (the narrower the face, the narrower the brim)

IN THE NEXT ARTICLE>>>>

Shopping for a hat - online or at a horse show

  • Crown - overall height of the hat should be in proportion to your face & body structure 

    • All hats begin with an open crown

    • Crown height is usually ~5¾” 

    • Crown shape may be round or pointed

    • The Crown often contains a “crease” and “vents”

  • Crease or Dent - the pinch or depression at the top of the hat

    • Several types exist, but for western shows we want the “Cattleman’s Crease”

    • This is the most defined shape of the Western all-around hat

  • Brim - the ring around the outside of the crown

    • Brims may vary from 3¾” (for kids and small stature) - 5”

    • Brim length may vary from 3¾”-4¼” (4” on avg)

    • Brim should be flat in the front and creased at the same width as the face.

    • Back of the brim should have a nice, rounded shape.

  • Bend - the “Crisp” sharp corners are the most important part of the hats shape.

    • The creases should begin at the edges of the face.

    • The crease should be more squared or sharp in the front 

    • The crease should relax as it moves toward the back creating a more rounded look from behind

    • The angle of the bend at the front of the brim can vary depending on your Class.

    • “The Western Pleasure Crease” “Quarter Horse Crease” “Show Crease”

    • The crease on a child’s hat should be a bit narrower in the front 

  • Sweatband - the leather ring around the inside of the brim

    • The leather breathes, absorbs sweat & keeps you comfortable

    • This band determines the ultimate size of the hat 

    • It often contains padding for improved comfort 

    • You can custom pad the hat to match the shape of your head even better. 

  • Hat Band - the decorative band around the outside of the crown

  • Shape of head opening - usually an oval

    • If you have a round head, most hats off the shelf won’t fit properly

    • In this case it’s best to size up and add extra padding in front and back.

Concluding Thoughts

Conclusion - suggestions, brands, where to find and links to hats!


See this gallery in the original post